Should I Water?

Okay, I now know how to meet most of my “watering” needs by conserving the rain I already receive. But it hasn’t rained for weeks, and the mulch I added isn’t doing the trick. Should I water? And how?

The honest answer is that I can’t answer that for you. Some gardeners water regularly, even when it’s raining regularly. Some never water. Those are all actions that emanate from each person’s internal compass and value system, one that is, in my opinion, only that person’s business and definitely none of mine. 

Here’s what I can tell you: If you’re wondering about it, check your soil. Stick your finger all the way into it and see how it feels. If it’s dry to your finger’s depth, possibly explore deeper with a trowel, maybe four-to-eight inches deep to see where it starts to be moist. You know what good soil should feel like and look like: It should be evenly moist throughout. If it’s drier than it should be, and especially if it’s bone dry, despite your best efforts or looks like it’s going that way with no rain in the forecast, consider that soil that is dry more than an inch deep—and for some plants less than that—stresses your plants and leads to them being at less than optimal health, and make your own call.

What’s the Best Way To Water?

If you decide to water, handheld wands are the most efficient (i.e. conserve the most water) because they allow you to consciously direct the water directly where you need it, instead of over-spraying onto non-garden areas. Because they greatly reduce the pounding force of water droplets that come out of a hose at pressure, wands whose heads can be pivoted to mimic Haws watering cans—Haws watering cans’ heads are turned upward to first direct the water toward the sky before it falls to the ground in small, gentle arcs—erode and compact your soil the least. 

Sprinklers are definitely easier and faster, if less efficient for getting water where you actually want it. Of the sprinklers, the oscillating band type is probably the most efficient for the average person, since they’re the easiest to keep (mostly) in your desired area by watching where they’re hitting and adjusting their arc, their position in the garden, and the water pressure at the spigot. You’ll likely get a little wet when repositioning before learning a few tricks about when to make your move—and even thereafter during inevitable miscues and mishaps🤪—but try to think back to when you were a kid and such things were fun. 😜

Drip irrigation systems offer the most efficient use of water, but they have their downsides. Many newer gardeners are intimidated by them, and they definitely take more time to set up than a simple sprinkler. Still, drip irrigation systems have their place and can be much easier than most people think. I’ll try to add a post soon that explains their pros and cons and how to use them without too much hassle.

Rain catchment systems are another tool for any gardener, no matter their average annual rainfall, and can range from simply diverting water from a downspout into a bucket to underground cisterns able to capture thousands of gallons of water. A good middle ground is installing a downspout diversion system into a 55-gallon barrel or 275-gallon, cube-shaped tote. Barrels and totes are affordable and available in most areas from all sorts of sources. Just look in want ads or online marketplaces where used goods are sold. Downspout diversion kits are affordably priced and available in most hardware and home improvement stores and online. Look for a kit that automatically takes care of overflow water and keeps mosquitoes out. Or you can make your own. The keys, again, are to keep the mosquitoes out and provide for overflow.

Just as important as all of these ideas is that you experiment to find the best for you and your situation.